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Best chemicals for Kodak Tri-X developing?

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[#2904]
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What are you guys actually using for Kodak Tri-X these days? I've been shooting rolls of it for street photography here in Chicago because the contrast is just perfect for the moody winter light, but Im kinda stuck on the chemistry part. I saw a bunch of threads suggesting D-76 because its the classic choice, but then I read a few people swearing by HC-110 for its shelf life since I dont shoot every single week and I dont want stuff going bad in my closet, though honestly the dilution ratios for HC-110 look a bit intimidating for a beginner like me. Im on a pretty tight budget right now since I just blew my savings on a new lens, so I need something that wont cost an arm and a leg to ship or keep stocked. Some folks say Xtol is the way to go for sharpness but I heard it can be tricky to mix from powder? Does anyone here have a preference for longevity versus ease of use, or am I overthinking the whole thing?


12 Answers
12

Honestly, everyone loses their minds over the big brands, but for budget work, you're massively overthinking the shelf-life drama. I've been using Ilford Ilfotec DD-X 1L for years despite the hype, but if you really want to save cash and not worry about mixing powder, just grab Arista Premium Liquid Developer 1L. It's basically the same stuff as the expensive name-brand concentrates but half the price. People act like you need a chemistry degree to dilute this stuff — just get a cheap plastic syringe from the pharmacy for like a dollar, and you're golden. Check out the Massive Dev Chart website if you haven't yet; it's the gold standard for getting your times right regardless of what you use. Stop stressing over the 'classic' choices and just find what's cheapest in stock.


10

> I read a few people swearing by HC-110 for its shelf life since I dont shoot every single week Adding my two cents, prioritize longevity if you aren't shooting constantly. I use Kodak HC-110 Developer Syrup 1L because it lasts indefinitely as a concentrate. D-76 is excellent, but once mixed into a stock solution, it only stays good for about six months. If you don't use it, you waste money. Regarding the dilution, it isn't difficult if you use a syringe. Just make sure to handle the syrup carefully. It is caustic, so wear eye protection and gloves. Double-check your measurements before adding water. If you feel uncomfortable handling concentrated chemicals, I'd recommend getting it professionally done if you're not sure about handling the chemistry safely yet. Safety is paramount when working with photochemicals.


4

Building on the earlier suggestion, I totally agree that Kodak HC-110 Developer Syrup is the way to go if you want to avoid the headache of expiring stock solutions. Just make sure you double-check your measurements every single time. Honestly, I always use a graduated cylinder rather than just eyeballing it because consistency is key with Tri-X. Also, please keep in mind that you are dealing with chemicals, so keep your workspace ventilated and wear gloves. If you are totally new to this, I would recommend getting it professionally done if you are not sure about handling the chemistry safely yet. It is not rocket science, but you really dont want to be splashing developer around your living space. Safety first, always...


3

Listen, I hear you on the budget—with three kids running around, I don't have money to burn on overpriced lab processing either. I started doing my own development years ago because the local shop wanted $20 a roll, which is just robbery. I did the math, and doing it myself costs me pennies per roll. You're definitely overthinking the chemistry, but that's normal when you're starting out. Honestly, stick with Kodak HC-110 Developer Syrup. Forget the scary dilutions—I just use a 10ml syringe from the pharmacy to pull out 15ml of syrup and mix it with 465ml of water for a 1:31 ratio. It takes thirty seconds, and the bottle lasts basically forever in my darkroom shelf. I've had the same bottle for two years now, whereas D-76 powder goes bad once you mix it, and I hate wasting money on half-used stock solutions. People complain about the mixing, but it’s just liquid math. I saved a ton just by not throwing away oxidized chemistry every few months. If you want sharpness, sure, go for Kodak Xtol Developer Powder, but mixing that giant bag of powder is a pain and takes up way too much storage space in my utility closet. Keep it simple, buy the syrup, and use the extra cash for more film. You'll thank me when you aren't dumping expired chemicals down the drain.


3

Just catching up on this thread. It reminds me of when my uncle tried developing film in his basement during the late 70s. He ended up accidentally staining his entire vintage rug because of a leaky chemical jug. It was quite an ordeal to fix.

  • Always double-check your workspace ventilation.
  • Keep all chemicals clearly labeled to prevent mix-ups.
  • I'd recommend getting it professionally done if you are not sure about safety protocols.


2

Facts.


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If you are worried about shelf life and ease of use, Kodak HC-110 Developer 1L is the most practical option. The concentrate lasts for years in the bottle, which saves you from wasting money. Just make sure you use a graduated cylinder or a plastic syringe to measure the syrup accurately, as the high concentration means even a small error affects your contrast. I always recommend wearing nitrile gloves and eye protection when handling these chemicals, even if they seem mild. Proper ventilation is also a necessity in a small space like a bathroom or closet darkroom. If you are not confident about handling concentrated chemicals or proper disposal, I would recommend getting it professionally done until you have a safe, ventilated space set up. Double-check your dilution ratios on the Massive Dev Chart before you start.


2

This comes up a lot. Grab some Kodak D-76 Powder Developer—it's cheap, reliable, and practically foolproof. Just mix it up, check the Massive Dev Chart for times, and you're set.


2

Rarely post but I had to chime in because the state of the analog market is honestly just TRASH right now. Prices are climbing through the roof while quality control feels like it's plummeting, and it drives me crazy how these companies treat us like a bottomless pit for cash. It is such a scam how they milk us for every cent just to get some basic chemistry. Like someone mentioned, the options are overwhelming and it makes the whole hobby feel like a chore instead of fun. If you want to stop the guessing game, just bookmark the Massive Dev Chart website and use their app. It is the only thing that keeps me sane when I am trying to figure out times for different film and chemical combos. Just pick one and stick with it until you learn your own rhythm.


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Jumping in here:

  • Honestly its ridiculous how much they charge for shelf-stable chemistry now.
  • The industry is just milking us dry and it drives me absolutely CRAZY.


1

I have been struggling with the exact same dilemma regarding chemical selection for months now. I honestly cannot figure out which developer offers the best balance of shelf life and ease of use for my setup. It is frustrating to have so many options yet no clear path forward. I am still searching for a definitive answer myself.


1

Can confirm this works. Did the same thing on mine and its been solid ever since.


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