Like someone mentioned, liquid is better. Last summer I used Adox Rodinal 500ml for Tri-X. It's cheap, lasts forever, and gives that gritty, high-contrast look you want for your coast trip.

Rarely post but I saw this and had to chime in because Tri-X and home dev is literally my happy place. Honestly, stop stressing about the "perfect" developer. For a beginner wanting that gritty street look, you have two real paths. First, Kodak HC-110 Developer Concentrate. This is the gold standard for being idiot-proof. It comes as a syrup, so you just mix a tiny amount with water right before you develop, then toss the rest. It lasts forever in the bottle, literally years. It gives great contrast and pulls out that classic Tri-X look without any of the powder mixing headaches. Second, if you want something even more straightforward for consistent results, try Ilford Ilford ID-11 Developer Powder. People hate the mixing part, but it produces such smooth tones that are very forgiving if you mess up your timing by a few seconds. It is much more classic than the sharp, gritty look of the concentrates, but it is way harder to accidentally ruin your shots. My advice? Grab the Kodak HC-110 Developer Concentrate. It is liquid, it is cheap, and it is honestly the most forgiving stuff on the planet. You dont need to overthink it. Just mix it, develop your roll, and enjoy the coast trip. You are gonna be fine, just keep your agitation consistent and dont overthink the process...

Honestly, everyone pushes Kodak D-76 Developer Powder but it is such a hassle to mix and store. If you want that gritty look, just grab Adox Rodinal Developer Concentrate. It lasts forever since it is a liquid concentrate, so no weird mixing, and it really makes the grain pop. It might be a bit sharp for some, but for street stuff, it is literally perfect. Just pick one and stop overthinking it, honestly.

Forget the hype around Kodak D-76 Developer Powder. It's a pain to store and the powder is messy. Stick to liquid concentrates for ease of use.

• Ilford Ilfosol 3 Developer Liquid Concentrate: Very easy for beginners. It's affordable and gives consistent results, though the shelf life once opened is short.
• Adox Rodinal Developer Concentrate: Nearly infinite shelf life. It produces sharp, gritty images, but requires precise agitation to avoid uneven development.

@Reply #3 - good point! Honestly, everyone acts like you need a chemistry degree to develop Tri-X, but I really think people overcomplicate it just to sound smart. I hear a lot of folks pushing the big name powders because that's what the old manuals say, but honestly, I'm not sure if that's still the best advice for a beginner today. I've always found those powders to be a huge headache to store once they're mixed — they basically go bad if you look at them wrong. I’m not 100% sure, but I feel like you're way better off with a simple liquid concentrate that you can just pour out a tiny bit of and toss. It’s way less stress, and honestly, for your first few rolls, just pick something reliable and don't overthink the science.

My buddy told me the exact same thing last week. Guess he was right lol.

To add to the point above: everyone acts like you need those fancy brand name chemicals, but honestly, have you checked the prices on some of that stuff lately? It is honestly insane. Before you drop cash on a big bottle, are you planning to scan these yourself or print them in a darkroom? That changes everything regarding the developer you actually need. Lowkey, you can save a ton just by being smart with your dilutions.

Seconded!

Building on the earlier suggestion, I totally agree that liquids are the way to go for someone just starting out. Mixing powder is a total drag and honestly kind of a mess if you dont have a dedicated space. IIRC, the reason people like the liquid stuff for travel or occasional shooting is that you dont have to worry about a gallon of developer going bad on your shelf.

• It saves so much space.
• Cleanup is basically just rinsing your syringe.
• You wont have that anxiety about whether your chemistry is still good. Idk if this applies to your exact thrift store tank, but just make sure you have a way to measure your water accurately! Not sure if you have a graduated cylinder yet, but that was the only thing that tripped me up at first. Good luck with the coastal trip, Tri-X is gonna look sick in those gray skies...

^ This. Also, I’m no expert—I literally spent all last week obsessing over this exact same choice before my first roll—but honestly, just grab Kodak HC-110 Developer Concentrate.

• It’s liquid, so no powder mess.
• It lasts basically forever.
• It gives that punchy contrast you want in Seattle gray. Basically, everyone is pointing you toward concentrates because powder is a headache. Just mix a bit of syrup with water and you’re golden for your trip.

This thread is gold. Bookmarking for future reference 🔖

Had a moment to think about this while fixing the dishwasher. I started developing at home years ago because the local shop wanted $20 a roll, which is insane for a family of five. I did the whole process for about $3 a roll by bulk loading film and reusing my chemistry until it was dead. It saved me a ton of money over the last decade.

• I started with a used tank and a closet setup.
• Learning to manage my own dilutions cut my costs by 75%.
• I focused on consistency rather than the brand on the bottle. My first roll was a disaster, but I learned more from those ruined frames than from any forum post. Just pick a process, document your times, and stop overthinking the gear. You will figure it out.

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Wow ok that changes things. Gonna have to rethink my approach now.